If you have spent any time around the LS, specifically stroker motors, you likely have seen failures in the #2/4 main bearings.

This is something that would need to be in an article on its own due to the technical nature of the processes. This is resolved with many different techniques. Sizing/roundness can be an issue using a single hone head as material will remove at a different rate from hole to hole. With all main bores being honed with a single hone head and multiple stones, it creates a perfect line of holes not allowing for any offset, resolving the issues of main bore misalignment provided the main bores were put on center prior to the hone process. Using the drill bit method will only work if you install an aftermarket crank pulley with a full grove already cut into.When discussing basics of main bores, the many important factors are main bore alignment, perfectly round hole, main cap tension and main bore size consistency. How are you going to do this when you only drill the crank/pulley roughly 5/8' deep, the pins aren't that long, the method you listed would only work if you drilled the crank the entire length of the pulley when drilling it the first time which would weaken the crankshaft, if the crank and pulley were drill according to the directions, sticking a drill bit in the half moon hole or slot will not allow you to install the crank due to 50% of the drill bit sticking out of the slot and there being no slot at the back of the pulley to take up the difference. I myself have no experience with this.just seemed like the best/easiest method people were talking about. I read somewhere on one of these forums about this and the most common answer I saw out of the many different methods people had used was to put the drill bits back in the holes and use them to guide the pulley back on then re insert the pins.

Ls1 cam bearings pinning